Gorgeous gluten-free grub: Gluten-free highlights from Milan to Menaggio and onto Manarola

Monday, December 15, 2014

Gluten-free highlights from Milan to Menaggio and onto Manarola

I didn't want the year to go by without recording some of the gluten-free (GF) highlights of our trip to Italy in May and June this year. There's a high level of awareness about coeliac disease and the GF (senza glutine) diet in Italy and ensuring GF food isn't contaminated during the preparation and cooking process which makes it a great destination for coeliacs like me. Here are my highlights:

Caprese salad
I have to start with caprese salad as I had it for lunch at least three times a week and never got tired of eating it. The tomatoes in Italy seemed sweeter and tastier than in Australia and combined with buffalo mozzarella, basil and olive oil it was a delicious way to refuel at lunch.

Over the five weeks we were in northern Italy, I became a bit of a connoisseur of the dish and enjoyed the additional flavours and textures when anchovies or prosciutto were added. The entire time we were in Italy I didn't have a bad caprese salad which apparently was designed to resemble the colours of the Italian flag.

Farmacias
While GF products are available in Italian supermarkets, a larger range is sold at selected pharmacies (farmacias). This is what I discovered when I walked into the Menaggio pharmacy on the eastern shore of Lake Como.

Here I stocked up on GF madeleines and brioches, a great snack when we were exploring one of Lake Como's lovely gardens or a sweet accompaniment to a mid-morning cappuccino.

The Menaggio pharmacy was also where I discovered a delicious, non-dry GF bread that Bruce reckoned tasted as good as a normal wheat-containing loaf. The pharmacist said it was the best one to buy as it didn't need heating or toasting and it made great sandwiches when we were on the run. Unfortunately, I didn't keep the label and spent the rest of the trip trying to find it again.

The Menaggio pharmacy and the one on Piazza San Stefano in Belluno at the base of the Dolomites, also had more than 10 different brands of GF pasta including Le Celizie, which was the most delicious GF pasta I have ever tasted. I wished I'd bought several packets to take back with me to Australia.

Pizzeria Il Discovolo, Manarola
Signs outside this shop advertising 'gluten free food sold here' caught my eye on our first afternoon in Manarola, one of the five little towns in Le Cinque Terre. When I stepped inside Il Discovolo I felt like a child in a toy shop with GF pizzas, focaccia, tortes, cakes and polenta bakes on display.

The owner, Enrico told me his wife Giulia makes the GF baked goods which they started doing three years ago after getting many requests from tourists. They also stock a wide range of frozen and pre-prepared GF products including ice cream cones, lasagna, biscuits and crackers.

During our week in Manarola, I returned many times especially to buy farinata, the local specialty made with chickpea flour that was delicious topped with pesto sauce.

L'Arcobaleno Trattoria, Volastra
After a morning exploring the steep trails inland from Manarola, we went looking for somewhere to have lunch in the small town of Volastra. After our first choice couldn't cater for me we moved on to L'Arcobaleno Trattoria where Tony, the very friendly owner welcomed us in. When I told him I was celiaca, he hurried into the kitchen and returned holding up GF crackers and several types of GF pasta, like a child at school doing 'show and tell'. Only in Italy, I thought, could you arrive in a tiny hilltop town and enjoy a hearty meal of bolognese with GF spaghetti, and as we ate Tony told us how his Nonna had moved to Australia but returned to Italy after several years.

GF biscuits on the train
After being pleasantly surprised to receive a complimentary drink on the 1st class train from Belluno to Milan, I was even more impressed when the trolley man gave me a small packet of GF biscuits to go with my drink. Only in Italy, I thought again, would they cater for coeliacs on the train.

Chips and olives with Prosecco
While I wasn't able to eat much of the food served with the evening aperitivo at bars and restaurants, I could always munch on some plain chips and olives and so didn't feel like I completely missed out.

At Bar Brera in Milan the staff went out of their way to provide me with alternatives like fresh cherries and rock melon and a huge bag of plain chips to make up for the food that I couldn't eat.

Ristorante Al Passetto, Cortina
It was raining and cold when we arrived in the ski resort of Cortina, high in the Dolomites. The town seemed deserted and we wondered where we were going to find somewhere to eat. And then we discovered Ristorante Al Passetto, which to my delight had a separate 'senza glutine' menu. There were plenty of options but I decided to have my first Italian GF pizza, which was delicious washed down with a glass of vino bianco.

Emanuele Cafe, Verona
Right on Piazza Bra, the main square in Verona, this restaurant is a perfect place to people watch and enjoy a Prosecco or two. It also caters for coeliacs and was where I had a delicious dish of GF pasta with zucchinis and prawns.

Carlin Carlota Agriturismo
All my GF needs were taken care of at this lovely farm stay near Neive in Italy's Piedmont region.

As the sun set over the rolling hills and grape vines I enjoyed a four course meal including a ragout with GF pasta and many glasses of Italian wine. Bellissimo!

Gelato biscotti at Mag in Milan
While artisan (good quality) gelato is generally GF, staff at gelaterias advise that crumbs from the wheat-containing cones may break off and contaminate the gelato so they can't say it's 100 per cent GF. This was the advice I received at Mag Gelateria in Corso Genova, Milan, but fortunately there was an alternative for me. Gelato biscotti, which the staff assured me was totally GF, was so delicious we returned three times during our week in Milan for an afternoon sweet treat.

Al Fresco Restaurant, Milan
As well as having a delicious GF lunch including GF bread roll at this lovely garden restaurant with Bruce, Trudy, Jenny, Stephen and Chris, the owner gave me some Italian language tuition on the correct way to inform restaurant staff that I had coeliac disease and required a gluten free meal. Grazie mille Senor Al Fresco.

Jenny and Stephen's GF dinners in Milan
Last but not least were the delicious GF meals prepared by Jenny and Stephen during our week-long stay at their apartment in Milan.

Grazie mille Jenny and Stephen and grazie mille to the Associazone Italiana Celiachia (AIC) for all the great GF education and training they do with restaurant staff throughout Italy. Bravo!

4 comments:

FionaDecember 17, 2014 at 4:20 PM
Wow Therese! All that food looks and sounds delicious. You must go back and remember to pack some in your luggage. ;-)
ReplyDelete
Replies
Jenny PDecember 18, 2014 at 12:14 AM
Great memories and what a fantastic resource for other gluten free travelers. Remind me to buy some of that pasta before we head home.
ReplyDelete
Replies
ThereseDecember 18, 2014 at 3:44 PM
Bruce said it was nice to be reminded of what a fantastic trip we had! That would be great if you could bring a packet or two home as long as it doesn't take up too much room. Enjoy your travels.
ReplyDelete
Replies

Add comment

News

A gluten-free baker in Paris!
A French pastry chef with coeliac disease has opened a gluten-free bakery in Paris. Called Helmut Newcake, Marie Tagliaferro's bakery is at 36 Rue Bichat, near the Canal St Martin on the right bank and not far from the Metro Republic or Goncourt.

The guts of going gluten-free
Writing in The Sydney Morning Herald, Sarah Berry discusses the myth and fact in the gluten-free debate for non-coeliacs.

Men missing out
A new study from gastroenterologist Dr Bob Anderson shows that men account for less than one-third of all coeliac tests performed in Australia reports the ABC’s Sophie Scott.

Coeliac, Crohn's genetic link
An international team of researchers has identified four genetic variants common to celiac disease and Crohn’s disease

Gluten intolerance study
Australian researchers have found that people can be gluten intolerant without having coeliac disease, reports The Sydney Morning Herald.

Is it gluten or is it not?
In an article by award-winning health writer Paula Goodyer, Dr Sue Shepherd warns about eliminating gluten from your diet without being checked out for coeliac disease.

Celebrities and the GF diet
From Elisabeth Hasselbeck's popular book, The G-Free Diet, to Chelsea Clinton's gluten-free wedding cake to Gwyneth Paltrow's website, the focus these days seems to be on gluten, or, rather, on going gluten-free. Are celebrities putting too much glamour on the gluten-free diet asks Jefferson Adams?

Sweet treats, no wheat
The Sydney Morning Herald's Helen Greenwood reviews Healthy Feast, a bakery in Norton Street, Leichhardt full of gluten-free treats. Look for the sign that says OneFiveSeven about five doors up from Bar Italia or you’ll get lost.

Calcium supplements
In early August, ABC Radio National's Health Report featured research suggesting that calcium supplements may be associated with a risk of heart attacks and maybe strokes. With many people with coeliac disease taking calcium supplements, it was heartening to hear that this week some Australian and overseas researchers believe the study was flawed and reject the findings.

Gluten's toxic components
Scientists at Melbourne's Walter and Eliza Institute have identified the three protein fragments that make gluten - the main protein in wheat, rye and barley – toxic to people with coeliac disease.

What I am cooking

On the menu at the unveiling
The night Sister Wendy popped by to unveil our artwork, I made two types of rice paper rolls - Prawn and avocado and tandoori chicken. I can't remember where I got the recipe for the prawn and avocado rolls but the tandoori chicken ones came from Wheat & Gluten Free by Jody Vassallo and Dianne Boyle. While they are a bit fiddly to make, and by the end I felt a bit like I had repetitive strain injury, they were both delicious. Here are the recipes.

Tandoori chicken rolls
Ingredients: 150g dried rice vermicelli, 325 g gluten-free Greek style yoghurt, 3 tablespoons gluten-free tandoori paste (Patak's is GF), 750g skinless chicken thigh fillets, cut into bite-sized pieces, 24 small rice paper rounds, 16 cm in diameter, 24 fresh mint leaves, 3 tablespoons gluten-free mango chutney.
Method: 1. Put the vermicelli into a bowl, cover with boiling water and allow to stand for 10 minutes or until the noodles are soft. Drain and cut into short lengths.
2. Combine 260 g of the yoghurt and the tandoori paste in a bowl. Add the chicken and mix to combine. Spread the chicken out on a foil-lined baking tray. Cook under a grill preheated to high, turning a couple of times, for 5-10 minutes or until tender.
3. Soak a rice paper round in lukewarm water (I added a bit of boiling water to help along) until soft and place on a clean, dry tea towel. Top with 2 teaspoons of the noodles and 2 pieces of chicken. Dip a mint leaf in the remaining yoghurt and place on top of the chicken, followed by a small spoonful of mango chutney. Roll up to enclose the filling. Cover with damp absorbent paper while you prepare the remaining rolls. Serve with extra chutney.
Prawn and avocado rolls
Ingredients: about 30 baby prawns, one avocado, two limes, mint leaves (roughly chopped) and coriander (chopped leaves only).
Method: Prepare rice paper rounds as in above recipe. Place a couple of prawns and sliced avocado on the rice paper. Add a squeeze of lime over the avocado (it adds to the flavour and stops the avocado from going brown), followed by some chopped mint and coriander. Roll up to enclose the filling.

Stephanie Alexander's Bolognese Sauce
Stephanie's bolognese (pertaining to Bologna in Italy as opposed to bolognaise) made by Bruce for the first time was a hit at the artwork unveiling. It is from her book, The Cook's Companion, the Complete Book of Ingredients and Recipes for the Australian Kitchen. Bruce reckoned the inclusion of pancetta gave it the edge. As we had a big group we quadrupled the ingredients. The only thing we left out was the two teaspoons of plain flour. I suppose we could have used gluten-free plain flour but in my experience very rarely do dishes like bolognese or bolognaise need flour. So here is the recipe.
Ingredients: 1 onion, finely chopped, 1 stick celery, finely sliced, 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 400 g minced beef or veal, 100 g pancetta or smoked streaky bacon, chopped, half cup of dry white wine, salt (I don't think it needs salt), freshly ground black pepper, freshly grated nutmeg, 2 cups of veal or chicken stock or tomato juice (we used chicken stock), 4 ripe tomatoes or 1 x 400 g can peeled tomatoes in juice, pureed (we used the can variety although couldn't get pureed and remember to check the can as some can tomatoes have thickener in them), 2 tablespoons tomato paste, 1 large sprig thyme, 1 bay leaf.
Method: Saute onion, celery and garlic in oil in a large saucepan until softened. Add minced meat and pancetta and fry until meat breaks up into small lumps. Add wine, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well, then increase heat and boil to evaporate liquid. Add stock, tomato, tomato paste and herbs. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour, stirring from time to time. Taste for seasoning.

My sister gave me Seriously Good! Gluten-free Cooking by English chef Phil Vickery for Christmas. In March this year Coeliac UK announced that Phil was their new Food Ambassador. The book is full of delicious-looking recipes. The first one we (or I should say Bruce) tried recently was Phil's Slow-cooked Indian Lamb Korma, which is on page 81 of the book. With six tablespoons of double cream, the dish is quite rich. But it's also very flavoursome with lots of herbs and spices including ground coriander, hot chilli powder, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamons, garlic and ginger. A hearty meal for a cold winter's day or night.

Jody Vassallo's Flourless Chocolate Hazelnut Cake
I have made this cake about seven times now and it is always a hit as the hazelnut meal makes it a little bit different from all those flourless chocolate cakes out there in cookbook land. It appears in Jody Vassallo's cookbook Wheat & Gluten Free, which is sponsored by The Coeliac Society of Australia Inc. Here is the recipe:
Ingredients: 250g dark cooking chocolate, chopped, 2 tablespoons milk, 120g hazelnut meal, 125g caster sugar, 6 eggs, separated.
Method: Preheat oven to 180 degrees C. Line a 20cm spring form tin with baking paper. Put the chocolate and milk in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Do not let the base of the bowl touch the water. Stir over medium heat until the chocolate has melted. Set aside to cool slightly. Put the chocolate mixture, hazelnut meal, sugar and egg yolks into a bowl and mix to combine. Whisk the egg whites into the chocolate mixture and spoon into the prepared tin. Bake for 45 minutes or until firm. Allow to cool in the tin for 5 minutes. Serve with fresh berries. Serves 8.